Both FLAC (Free Lossless Audio Codec) and AIFF (Audio Interchange File Format) are lossless audio formats that can be used to store and distribute audio files.

However, if you are an audio nut or audiophile, you may be wondering, which format is the most suited for my music needs? So, here is a comprehensive comparison guide to help you choose between AIFF and FLAC.

What is FLAC?

FLAC is an acronym standing for “Free Lossless Audio Codec” first developed in 2001 by Xiph.Org Foundation. It is an open-source audio compression format that compresses the original files bit by bit using Pulse Code Modulation or PCM with no quality loss hence the name ‘lossless.’ The original audio files are compressed to about 60% of their original size.

FLAC compression works similarly to ZIP compression but is only used for compressing music files bit by bit. No data is lost during the compression process.

It can also be used to store tagging information, cover art, and fast-seeking information.

Being an open-source codec means that it is freely available for public use without infringing on the patent. However, you can copy-protect your FLAC audio files using another container format.

Features offered by FLAC

• It is lossless and open source and does not offer DRM copy-protection but you can encrypt your audio files using another container if you like.
• FLAC is a seekable audio format meaning that it does not buffer when seeking a certain timestamp. This is essential for accurate seeking, especially when editing your files.
• You can stream FLAC files from your home media server or other streaming services offering FLAC.
• FLAC can be used to rip some of your music files from sources such as CDs using software such as Windows Media Player with no loss in data for storage. You can also convert other audio formats such as AIFF to FLAC to use less storage.
• It is also error-resistant meaning in case an error occurs during compression, the rest of the file is not destroyed. Only the corrupt frame gets destroyed essentially limiting damage to your music files.  

How to play FLAC files

You can play FLAC music files in your stereo system, your car, through your headphone, or any other music system just like you would with other popular music formats. However, you will need a player capable of opening the files.

The most popular way to play FLAC files on smartphones, PCs, and Macs is using VLC which is free software that you can readily download from reputable internet sources.

Other players such as Windows Music Player and iTunes may require you to install a plugin to decode the audio files.

However, most media players will be compatible with FLAC. These media players include JetAudio app for android phones, Clementine for Mac OS, Media Connect for iPhones, Roon, and others.

What is AIFF?

AIFF is an acronym that stands for Audio Interchange File Format is a lossless audio format that was developed by Apple in 1988 based on the.IFF format (Interchange File Format). This format is, therefore, mostly used on Apple products.

However, unlike FLAC, AIFF files are uncompressed and use more storage (about 70% more storage).

You will require more space to store AIFF files which are 10 Megabytes for every minute of the music file. This means that for a minute file, you will require about 100 MBS of storage.

AIFF files are sampled at a rate of 44.1 kHz which is 44100 cycles per second and with a bit depth of 16 bits using Pulse Code Modulation (PCM) similar to WAV (Waveform Audio Format) files that are stored on CDs. That is why AIFF is also known as the Apple version of WAV.

However, there is a compressed AIFF version known as AIFC or AIFF-C that was also developed by Apple. This compressed version compresses the audio files by 6 times their original size.

AIFF audio format;

• Is a lossless and uncompressed format that requires more storage. This format retains all the bits of audio information found on the original file.
• Supports loss point data.
• AIFF supports metadata information such as the name of the Album, file name, and so on.
• Audio files encoded using AIFF are composed of several chunks with Sound Data Chunk and common Chunk being mandatory while other chunks such as Name Chunk, Instrument Chunk, Marker Chunk, and so on are optional.
• You can rip your CD files to AIFF using compatible software.

How to open AIFF files

Several players can open and play .AIFF audio files. These media players include Apple iTunes, Apple QuickTime Player, VLC for computers and smartphones, Windows Media Player, PowerAMP Music Player for Android phones, and others.

Converting AIFF and FLAC audio files

With the right software converter, you can convert AIFF audio files to FLAC files to use less storage and vice versa.

One such software is MAX which can be used to not only convert these files but can also rip your audio files. Other conversion software that you can use is iDealshare VideoGo, Faasoft, Footbar 2000, dBpoweramp, JRMC, HD Video Converter, and many more.

You also have the option of using online converters. However, some converters are slower than others.

FLAC vs AIFF: Comparison Table

Which is better?

Both FLAC and AIFF and great and lossless audio formats that can be used to store and play music in your sound system.

The biggest difference between these formats is that one is compressed and the other is uncompressed hence requiring about 50% less storage.

With both FLAC and AIFF no bits are lost as all information is copied bit by bit. You can also convert one format to the other and the audio file will remain the same. However, if you are more concerned about storage, you should convert your files to FLAC.

You are also better off with FLAC since most media players outside the Apple ecosystem can natively support it. But if you are an avid Apple user, AIFF will be natively supported by your player.

It all comes down to personal preference, the device you use, your favorite media player, and most importantly storage limits.

As a big audio enthusiast, you are probably aware of surround and 3d sound formats such as 5.1 and Dolby atmos respectively.

These formats were developed to create an immersive cinema experience but slowly found themselves in consumer products such as home theater systems and even headphones.

Numbers such as 5.1 or 7.1 are used to represent the number of audio channels. 5.1 surround comprises of 5 dedicated channels and 1 LFE channel for the bass effects and so on. Learn more about these surround sound channels by visiting this article.

Surround sound headphones are a more compact and cheaper alternative to the costly surround sound speakers that are also be complicated to set up and calibrate. These headphones can be used for watching movies, gaming, and listening to music.

To achieve this immersive experience, headphones mainly use virtualization technologies such as Atmos for headphones or Apple’s spatial audio while others use multiple drivers for the respective channels.

But to better understand surround sound headphones, we should take a deeper dive into the related concepts.

Virtual surround sound headphones

You can get surround sound on any pair of stereo headphones (have 2 drivers) provided you can use one of the several virtual surround sound technologies available today.

Virtual surround sound headphones can mimic a surround sound setup by using concepts of psychoacoustics (how people perceive sound) and Head-Related Transfer Function or HRTF techniques to create a spatial sound experience.

HRTF techniques take advantage of how sound waves hit our ears and how these sound waves interact with the environment and parts of our body from the shoulders to the curves in our ears to give a sense of direction and space.

On a basic level, these techniques use level, time, and other subtle sound differences to give you an idea of where the sound comes from.

From this, sound processing algorithms are created by adding delay, volume adjustments (Levels), and other aural cues to mimic a proper surround sound system.

The reason virtual surround sound works so well on headphones is that they operate in a more controlled environment with little interference such as crosstalk. You are also not limited by your room’s layout or sitting position.

Some headphones also feature gyroscopes, accelerometers, and magnetometers to track head movement for fully immersive 3d sound. Known as head-tracking headphones, these headphones are able to adapt the sound depending on your head’s orientation.

Some popular examples of head-tracking headphones you can buy today include;

• Apple’s Airpods Max
• Pulse 3d headphones by Sony
• Yamaha YH-L700A 
• HyperX Cloud Orbit S
• Audeze Mobius headset

Headphone virtual surround sound examples

1.       Dolby Atmos surround for headphones

Dolby Atmos is a 3D object-based sound format that can be used with any pair of stereo headphones positioning objects in a 360° space.

More content is now available in Dolby atmos whether you are a gamer, a movie buff, or a music lover. Thus, this is the best way to experience virtual 3d-audio as long as your source supports Dolby Atmos whether it’s a tv, a Dolby Atmos receiver, an Xbox, or your windows PC by using the Dolby access app.

2. Apple’s spatial Audio

Spatial Audio is Apple’s answer to Dolby Atmos for headphones for delivering surround sound and 3d audio including Dolby Atmos on AirPods (Pro & Max).

Combined with the head-tracking technologies in the new Airpods pro and Airpods Max, you will enjoy a fully immersive experience from the comfort of where you are.

However, spatial audio is only supported on paired Apple devices for movies and music.

3.       DTS Headphone:X

DTS Headphone:X is another object-based format and a Dolby Atmos for headphones alternative.

This codec can be used with stereo headphones but only with DTS-X content to simulate a 3d audio environment.

To get DTS-X for headphones, you will need to purchase the software which costs $20, or buy a DTS headset that will come bundled with the software.

If interested in learning the differences between DTS-X and Dolby Atmos, visit the linked article.

4.       Auro 3D for headphones

Auro 3D is equivalent to Dolby Atmos and DTS-X and also comes with a virtual solution for headphones.

It also works best with Auro 3D content to create the illusion of sound coming all around you even from above but will also work with content that has not been encoded in Auro 3D for a 5.1 or 7.1 surround effect without the extra height element.

5.       Windows Sonic for headphones

This is a free solution for use on Windows computers for gaming and watching movies.

Windows sonic will be supported by some games and for content encoded in surround sound formats.

To use Windows Sonic for headphones, right-click on the sound icon on your Windows Taskbar. Select the Spatial Sound option to see the Windows Sonic for Headphones option. Click on that option to turn on Windows Sonic and repeat the same process to turn it off.

6.       Super X-FI Headphone Holography

This is a virtual surround sound option brought to you by Creative Labs.

Super X-Fi uses your face and ear profiles to personalize your surround sound experience when you are using your headphones. The photos are taken using an app on your smartphone or tablet.

It can be used as a software solution for stereo headsets but can also come with Creative Lab’s virtual headphones with an onboard DSP (digital signal processor) that processes your audio for an immersive surround sound experience.

7.       360° Reality Audio

This standard is similar to Super X-FI in that it personalizes your experience using your head and ear profiles but only works with Sony headphones.

It is mainly aimed at music listeners but you will need a top-tier subscription on the supported streaming platforms such as Deezer which might be expensive for some.

8.       THX Spatial Audio

THX is another software option that creates a virtual surround sound effect on stereo headphones. It also comes with several presets to enhance your experience further depending on what you are watching or the game you are playing.

These are just some of the popular virtual surround sound options but others include;

• Razer 7.1 Surround Sound
• Boom 3D by Global Delight
• Ultrasone S-Logic Headphone surrounds by Ultrasone.
• Dirac VR
• Yamaha Silent Cinema

True 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound headphones

True surround sound headphones use multiple small drivers that are strategically placed and angled to create a surround sound effect.

5.1 surround headphones have a total of 8 drivers, 4 drivers in each headphone cup. These drivers include a center channel driver, a from channel driver, a side surround driver, and a bass driver for each ear.

7.1 surround headphones boast a total of 10 drivers, 5 drivers for each ear. The drivers include all drivers found in a 5.1 headphone cup but with an extra rear surround channel for each ear.

There have to be two center-channel drivers since you cannot have a single center channel driver. The two center-channel drivers are combined to create a full center channel experience that is essential for dialogue and most speech in a movie or a game.

Most True surround headphones also come with a plug-and-play adapter where the decoding and equalization are done for a better and more immersive experience overall.

The downside to these headphones is that they tend to be bulky and expensive.

The Low-Frequency Effect or LFE channel (the .1 channel)

This is something that most people tend to gloss over when talking about surround sound headphones.

The LFE channel is a channel responsible for the bass effects but does not represent the number of bass drivers in a surround headphone.

So, how do surround headphones reproduce the low frequencies yet they do not have subwoofers required to move a lot of air which is crucial for adding depth to audio?

The answer lies in how close the headphones are to our ears, the headphone’s design, and our bone structure.

Since headphones are usually so close to our eardrums and ear bone structure, they do not need to move much air or rumble as much to reproduce bass for depth.

These effects also hit our head bone and ear bone structures to vibrate them. The vibrations are then received by our brains which process the information to produce the same effect that a subwoofer would have on us.

How the surround headphones are designed also affects how we perceive the low-frequency effects. Most surround sound headphones have a sealed design with minimal leakage which when coupled with the proximity of the headphones to the ears create great bass and an immersive surround sound experience.

Surround sound headphones will not sound great if they do not have a great bass response. Depth is essential both in a surround sound system and a stereo system.

What to look for in surround sound headphones

• The most important thing to look for when buying surround headphones is audio quality. Sound quality is very subjective and if you can get a chance to listen to the headphones before buying, that would be ideal.
• Comfort is also essential, especially if you are a gamer or if you plan on binge-watching certain shows and movies using the headphones. This may vary depending on personal preference but you want a set that is light and has great cushions ideal for long use cases.
• Active Noise-canceling (ANC) or noise isolating headphones will come in handy in noisy listening environments.
• Long battery life is important on wireless surround headphones since most of the models need to be charged for use. At least 10 hours of battery life should be great since you may not be using your headset for longer than that due to fatigue.
• Headphones will collapsible ear cups are great since they are easier to store and tend to be more comfortable.
• A Built-in microphone and control module will be great, especially if you love playing interactive PC and console games.
• Durability is also important but depends on how much you are willing to spend. Headphones will metallic and carbon fiber build will last longer but tend to be costlier.

Are surround sound headphones worth it?

Surround sound in headphones can help improve your listening experience if you cannot afford to build a dedicated speaker surround system, if you do not have enough space, or if using your system would be a nuisance to others.

But many would argue that virtual surround headphones are better and will outperform true surround sound headphones which are also costlier. This is a sentiment I agree with since codecs such as Dolby atmos have improved over recent years.

Being immersed in a game or a movie will improve your experience and will also determine if you perceive something as great.

Subwoofers are great for adding “Oomph” to a sound system but are also known to blow when overpowered. Though rare, it happens.

So, what is a blown sub?

A blown subwoofer is one that has undergone a mechanical or thermal failure. This is excluding accidental physical damage such as dropping the subwoofer or poking the sub’s cone using a sharp object.

But how can you tell if your sub is blown and can it be fixed? Well, let’s explore.

Causes of a blown sub-woofer

1.      Over-powering the subwoofer

Overpowering is the most common cause for blown subs.

Subwoofers have power ratings and that can be the peak power, continuous power handling, or RMS.

The peak power can only be sustained for short bursts and is not as reliable as RMS and continuous power handling which can be sustained for longer.

Usually, your sub driver should only draw just enough power to play the sub-bass frequencies. This should be below the RMS rating. Exceeding the recommended power levels could easily render it unusable.

This is because most sub-woofers have an efficiency of around 1% meaning that only 1% of the power drawn is converted to audible sound while the rest is converted to heat. What’s more, the efficiency of the sub driver drops as heat builds up (learn more about speaker wattage, efficiency, and heat by clicking the link).

So, if you drive your subwoofer at 80 watts, only 0.8 watts are used to move the driver while 79.2 watts are converted into heat. This heat is then dissipated through convection as the driver moves air and through radiation.

When too much power is sent to the driver, more heat is generated than the sub is equipped to dissipate. Thus, the heat builds up in the voice coil.

Overheating the voice coil will, in turn, soften the glue/adhesive holding the coil to the former, deforming it and as more heat builds up, complete damage occurs.

A deformed voice coil will not work as it was intended and may scrap on the sides of the voice coil gap. You may hear rattling, scratching, buzzing, or other unpleasant noises as the driver moves back and forth.

Additionally, a damaged coil will stop working altogether and you will have no sound playback.

2.      Overpowered clipped signals

It’s not the clipped/distorted signals from an amp that can damage a subwoofer but the excessive power from these clipped signals.

This is something that most people often get wrong.

Most sound systems will experience some form of distortion which can come from the source or the amplifier. If clipped signals were to cause speaker or subwoofer damage, most sound systems would not survive.

The problem with clipped signals is the significant increase in the amount of power they deliver to the subwoofer’s drivers.

Distorted signals may not have as much punch as most people prefer and to compensate, they increase the level. In turn, more power is delivered to the sub with no improvement in sound quality.

And as we have seen in the first point, more power is equal to more heat, increasing the likelihood of damage.

Clipped signals do not cause mechanical or thermal damage but overpowering the drivers beyond their power handling capacities does.

3.      Mechanical failures

Over excursion of the sub’s cone can cause failure but this is less common.

Most speaker drivers are made to withstand over-excursion from their rest area without sustaining significant damage (X_damage).

But in some cases, the cones surround (cone’s frame) and the spider (a flexible ring that supports the cone) may be stretched limit. When this happens, the suspension may tear, or in worse case scenarios, the voice coil may be pulled out of the voice coil gap (less common).

If the voice coil moves out of place, it overheats from the incoming power as it no longer rests in the magnetic field and does not move as intended. Therefore, the power is converted into heat instead of moving the cone.

However, if only the cone structure, especially the foam, tears or comes loose, fixing the sub should be possible using flexible silicon rubber gel.

Mechanical failure of the magnet assembly can occur if the glue and bolts that hold the front and back plates come loose. The voice coil can get jammed in the voice coil gap which is made to precisely fit the coil.

Failure can also occur if an object gets into the voice coil gap. These can be soil particles, a small piece of metal, a breakaway particle from the magnet, or any other foreign object.

These objects can short the voice coil, melt, and stick on the coil or cause abrasion to the surface insulation of the winding wire. This will cause significant damage to the sub driver.

4.      Wire failures

There is a flexible wire that connects the positive and negative leads on the sub to the respective terminals on the voice coil.

These wires can fail/break and stop the flow of current to the coil.

If this is the reason your subwoofer is blown, soldering another feed wire to the respective terminals should easily solve the problem but it’s not always a possible undertaking.

How to tell if your subwoofer is blown

It may not always be obvious if your subwoofer is blown unless it is mutilated. However, there are several ways to diagnose this and tell which part is damaged.

1.      Listen for distorted bass, scratching, buzzing, and other noises

Playing a soundtrack on your source with your subwoofer connected to the system is one way you can diagnose a blown subwoofer.

If the bass is weak and distorts with an increase in volume, you may have a blown sub in your hands. The same case applies to hearing buzzing or scratching noises that can be a sign of voice coil damage.

2.      Physically inspect the cone and voice coil

This will involve checking if the suspension or cone is torn. The attachment between the surround and the cone can also come loose.

You can also use your hands to gently press on the sub’s cone. The cone should move back with ease and get back into its resting position once you let go.

If the cone wobbles/dances around, the spider may be loose. Lack of movement may indicate a jammed voice coil. The voice coil may be stuck in the magnetic gap or may have moved out of place.

If you hear scratching noise on pressing the cone, then the sub’s voice coil is distorted due to thermal damage.

You can also visually inspect the voice coil by opening up your subwoofer and carefully taking the driver out of its enclosure. The coil may be discolored partially or entirely, it may look burned and the coiled wire may be hanging loose. All these are telling signs of a blown coil.

3.      Use a multimeter to test driver circuit resitance

To do this you will need to disconnect the subwoofer from the power outlet and audio source if it’s active and from the audio source if it’s passive.

Connect the positive probe on the sub’s positive terminal and negative to the negative terminal and check the reading on your ohmmeter (multimeter). Ensure the meter is well calibrated and set on a lower range for this test (0-100Ω/X1 range) to prevent inaccuracies.

If you get a 1-ohm reading, the voice coil is still functional. A reading of 0 ohms is bad news as it shows that there is a short and the coil is completely blown (electrical failure).

You can also take a step further to ensure that it is not the flexible wire connecting the terminals on the coil to the leads that are the root of the problem.

For this, the multimeter probes should touch the respective terminals on the voice coil itself. If you get a reading or 1 ohm but had a 0-ohm reading before, then the flexible wire is the problem. It may need to be replaced if possible.

Can you fix a blown subwoofer?

This will depend on the extent of damage and the damaged component.

If the damage is only mechanical such as a tear on the cone or the surround, you can fix it before it gets worse using flexible glue.

A damaged voice coil or failed spider will mean a full reconning process. You will need to buy a whole cone kit, including the coil, cone, surround, flexible lead wires, the gasket, the dust cap, and adhesives. Reconning kit can sometimes cost as much as the subwoofer itself.

It also goes without saying that the processing of installing a new cone is delicate and should be done by an expert who charges for the service, not including other costs such as shipping. This is because foreign objects may get into the magnetic gap in the process if you are not careful enough.

It is also easy to damage the cone kit while installing it.

If the damage has only occurred on the magnet assembly to a small extent and it is still intact, repair may be possible. This will involve taking the magnetic components apart, demagnetization and re-magnetization. It’s a complex process that a few repair experts will attempt.

The thing with blown subwoofers is that you are better off replacing the whole thing with one that is more power-efficient, has a better quality build, and is better at dissipating heat.

When replacing a blown sub, choose one with better power handling, cabinet construction, a more linear driver, and one that is best suited for your listening or theater room. The sub should also have a limiter to reduce the risk of the voice coil heating up and distortion.

Meanwhile, use your volume knob reasonably and don’t overdrive sub. This will apply to both passive and active subs. Do not exceed your sub’s power handling limit.

Blowing a subwoofer is not easy but is not impossible and, therefore, it’s essential to take great care of it.